We have found our way to Coimbra, Portugal, home of several things, including a world-class university, a beautiful river (the Mondego), and a unique form of music called Fado. We hear Fado often from our apartment balcony in the old city -- sometimes sung by beautiful balladeers or choirs, and sometimes by drunken students out way too late. Fado ("Fate" in Portuguese) is borne of the traditions of Portugal, in particular the travails of her fishermen and the people who loved them and waited longingly for them to return safely. Fado is at heart an expression of what's known as "saudade" in Portuguese -- that is, a sense of longing, of loss and yearning for one's loved ones. Music is a large part of the Portuguese spirit, and we have not gone a day in this city without hearing beautiful music wafting to us on the breeze. Some of it is festive and upbeat, some melancholy, but all of it is beautiful and expressive of these warm, welcoming people.