Blog Posts

August 21st, 2021

8/21/2021

And Now for Something Completely Different . . .

We've totally enjoyed our unexpectedly lengthened sojourn in New Zealand, in no small part because of the New Zealanders themselves. Kiwis are hard-working, earnest, warm-hearted, kind. They have a strong sense of community and family, while at the same time possessing an independent, individualist spirit. And one of the more amusing expressions of that individuality, at least that we've found, is one of the most mundane: the post box. In every town we've visited, mailboxes vary widely and wildly in design. Many seem to have been fashioned from found materials or recycled items. While all fulfill their primary function of holding mail, each one seems to in one way or another reflect the personality of the individual or family whose mail it is. Below are just a few examples.

NZ North Island Adventures

3/6/2021

Kia Ora! Our sojourn Down Under continues! We've been in New Zealand for over a year now (we arrived January 29th, 2020!). NZ Immigration has been remarkably kind to those of us caught away from home in a post-pandemic world. Our travel plans have continued to morph as we get one visa extension after another! We got to Raglan, on the western coast of the North Island, in July, 2020, with expectations that we might have to leave in September. We then got an extension to the end of February, 2021. That allowed us to plan trips to the Taranaki region, Wellington, and across the Cook Strait (for the 3rd time!) to Dunedin and Queenstown. We now have a further extension to the end of April (as I write this, we're in Queenstown on the South Island), with the distinct possibility of an additional 6-month visa that would take us to October. Wow!

So, I'm working to get caught up on photos from our last few months. We've been traipsing all over these islands, just agog at the beauty and energy of New Zealand and its people. We're constantly astounded at the gems hidden all over the landscape as we wander the country. For pictures and commentary on our three glorious months in Raglan and the Waikato region of the North Island, visit here: Waikato. Here, some photos to act as an appetizer for our time in the Taranaki area, Wellington, and Dunedin. Cindy also has several albums of photos on her Facebook page (if you have Facebook). More to follow!

Stay healthy, enjoy each moment, and have a magnificent 2021!

Mount Taranaki (Shining Mountain) dominates the view throughout the Taranaki region. Here, it towers over Lake Mangamahoe, a gorgeous man-made lake near New Plymouth on the northern edge of the Taranaki Bight.

Pukekura Park is an idyllic playground in the center of New Plymouth. Its 52 hectares (128 acres) embrace two lakes, a cricket ground, fernery, a waterfall, and this lovely fountain.

Sunset over Wellington Harbor. We stayed in a cozy Airbnb -- The Treehouse -- on the east side of the harbor and were treated to brilliant sunrises and sunsets during our stay.

While in Wellington, we visited the Putangirua Pinnacles. After treading over head-sized stones along the river bed on our way up the valley, we turned a corner to see these awe-inspiring rocks towering above us. This area was used by Peter Jackson for the Paths of the Dead in the Lord of the Rings. One gets a sense of solemnity and stillness in this haunted gorge! Truly a wondrous experience!

Dunedin, the 2nd-largest city on the South Island, was settled by Scots in the Mid-1800's and is still heavily influenced by that culture. The city's Railway Station is an icon of the area, an example of "Gingerbread" architecture. In the early days, it was New Zealand's busiest railway station.

Larnach Castle, a private manse on the eastern arm of the Otago Bay, is nowadays a tourist attraction, with lovely gardens and walkways offering splendid views to the bay below.

Who knew that the steepest street in the world existed in New Zealand? Baldwin Street, in Dunedin, is a short (1,150 feet) stretch with an average slope of 1:5, and is recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records. Think about the people who live on this street!

South of Dunedin, on the Clutha River, is the Tuapeka Mouth Ferry. This punt, one of only two in the world and the only one in the southern hemisphere, is totally powered by the flow of the river. On a glorious sunny day in February, we found our way to the tiny boathouse on the Clutha and took the free ride over the river. It's a lovely, tranquil, way to cross! Our operator was a wonderful old Kiwi with a thick accent and a friendly New Zealand charm. What a great day!

In a Hole in the Ground . . .

11/14/2020

. . . There lived a Hobbit. John Ronald Reuel Tolkien never set foot in New Zealand, but -- as Peter Jackson understood -- he might as well have. This country simply shouts "Middle-Earth!" Cindy and I ventured to Matamata, in the Waikato District, North Island, recently, to experience Hobbiton. Since I'm a Tolkien nerd, this had been one of the primary motivations for our journey to New Zealand. We celebrated my birthday in the same place as Frodo and Bilbo, together, celebrated their 33rd and 111th birthdays, shortly before Frodo departed to dispose of a troublesome heirloom . . .

Bag End and the Party Tree

One of Frodo's neighbors. The wondrous part of this whole experience is that Hobbiton is not a tourist trap -- it feels real!

The lovely New Zealand landscape perfectly reflects the idyllic nature of The Shire.

The Green Dragon Inn -- a perfect place to stop for a pint and a Hobbit-sized meal!

Refugees in Aotearoa

9/24/2020

Sunset over the Tasman Sea, Paekakariki

Motueka River, looking toward the Kahurangi Range, from the Pokororo swing bridge, Motueka River Valley

The beach at Moturoa, or Rabbit Island, Mapua

Bridge over the Avon River, Christchurch Botanical Gardens

Kia Ora! In Maori, that's "be healthy", and is a common greeting in New Zealand. Seems appropriate in these times! Wow! Cindy and I have been in Aotearoa, the Land of the Long White Cloud, for eight months! We've been on the North Island, then to the South Island, and back to the North Island. It's been quite an adventure, and a comforting refuge from a troubling pandemic. We've deeply missed family and friends, but feel very fortunate to have arrived in New Zealand when we did.

Our original plan was to be in New Zealand for three months, then travel to Fiji and Australia, then return to New Zealand for another three months. Of course, Covid totally changed those plans! The NZ Government has been kind to stranded individuals such as ourselves, initially granting us a visa extension till the end of September, and just recently granting an additional extension till the end of February. We've been taking advantage of the extra time to explore the country, traveling (so far), to Auckland, Paekakariki, Motueka, Christchurch, Picton, Wellington, Lake Taupo, Rotorua, and (currently) Raglan. With the new extension, we'll travel to Patea, back to Wellington, and Dunedin before leaving the country at the end of February. We're not sure where we'll head to next. After over a year here, are we going to feel like native Kiwis?

We have found New Zealanders to be extremely kind and generous, with a strong commitment to family and close relationships, and an unmatched enthusiasm for the outdoors. The country is astoundingly gorgeous. Around every turn of their twisty roads is another stupendous view. This country is quite literally ruled by birds; before the arrival of man, the only mammal in New Zealand was a species of small bat. The variety of birdlife on these islands is amazing. Days are filled with birdsong, and the sky and waters are amphitheaters for avian aerobatics. The seasons here are moderate; many plants that we know as annuals in the northern hemisphere are perennials here. We've been astonished to see geraniums blooming in the middle of a New Zealand winter!

I've got some pictures posted, and I'm working on more after taking a bit of a break. If you're interested, here are pictures from Auckland, Paekakariki, Motueka and the Tasman Bay, and Christchurch. More to come! In the meantime, kia ora -- be healthy!

Reminiscin' About Eire

6/25/2020

Hard to believe it's been a year since we visited Ireland. What a fine country! Every person you passed had a greeting and a nice word for you. Most of them had a story they wanted to share. The countryside is lovely: verdant green hills with pleasant hamlets nestled in the dells, bucolic pastures dotted with sheep. Dazzling sweeps of cliffs along the coast, with gorgeous sand beaches tucked in below.

We spent the last two months of our European adventure in the Republic of Ireland, half in Wexford in the Ancient East, and half on Valentia Island along the Wild Atlantic Way. In the process, we fell in love with the country and the people. If you'd like to see what we did, the pictures are here for the Ancient East, here for the Wild Atlantic Way, and here for our last few days in Dublin. Slainte!

La Serenissima, The City of Bridges

10/12/2019

Venice is a marvelous, miraculous city. Built on ten million tree trunks, as a refuge for those fleeing the destruction of the Roman Empire in the 400's, it's been a symbol of independence and prosperity for centuries. Though it's now in decline, it still shines brightly. The Venetian Republic ruled much of the world, and was an economic and cultural powerhouse, for over a millennium, and in so doing left its stamp on many lands. The evidence of that dominance can still be seen today, in the architecture, artwork, culture, and vigor of the area.

We were blessed to be able to stay in an historic area, the Old Ghetto. Our Jewish neighbors gladdened our hearts with their celebration of Shabbat each Friday evening. We enjoyed cichetti (small plates) at wonderful little cafes along the canals, gazed with delight at ancient buildings and statues, gaped in awe at the grandeur of St. Michael's Basilica, listened and watched in wonder as Vivaldi was brought to life before us, and, of course, expressed our love on a gondola ride under the bridges of Venice!

For more on our trip, you'll find pictures and captions here. Enjoy!

Wandering the Land of Arthur and Tristan

3/18/2019

It's easy to understand how the stories of kings, knights, giants, and wizards evolved along these mist-swathed, windswept shores. Cornwall is a land of sweeping moors, rocky tors, immense cliffs towering over crashing seas. It's a land where stone is one of the traditional products, and tin mines delve deep into the cliff faces. On a clear day, one can see for miles into the distance, out to where the ocean fades into the horizon. It's a land of heroes and heroines, with a history that extends into the mists of time. It's a country of villages and hamlets; there's only one city, Truro, in the entirety of Cornwall. Cornish folks hereabouts feel a closeness, a camaraderie, that defines their character. It's a fine place to explore; every nook has a story to tell! See our travels in the Tintagel area here.

Home of Europe's Union

3/18/2019

Our trip to Brussels was brief but fun. We had the opportunity to sample the chocolates and waffles, and take in some of the atmosphere of the place. It's a city that exemplifies solidity as well as solidarity, but with an underlying sense of frivolity and lightheartedness. We enjoyed our time!

Coimbra and Lisbon

3/18/2019

We fell in love with Portugal -- its people, its food, its beauty. It's hard to believe we were only in Coimbra for six weeks! In addition to the beautiful city of Coimbra, we took time to visit Aveiro and Sintra, and spent a few days in Portugal's capital of Lisbon. We couldn't recommend it more highly! It's taken a while to complete uploading all our pictures, and completing captioning (busy exploring other places), but here's the completed page: Coimbra. Check it out!

The Home of Fado

12/29/2018

We have found our way to Coimbra, Portugal, home of several things, including a world-class university, a beautiful river (the Mondego), and a unique form of music called Fado. We hear Fado often from our apartment balcony in the old city -- sometimes sung by beautiful balladeers or choirs, and sometimes by drunken students out way too late. Fado ("Fate" in Portuguese) is borne of the traditions of Portugal, in particular the travails of her fishermen and the people who loved them and waited longingly for them to return safely. Fado is at heart an expression of what's known as "saudade" in Portuguese -- that is, a sense of longing, of loss and yearning for one's loved ones. Music is a large part of the Portuguese spirit, and we have not gone a day in this city without hearing beautiful music wafting to us on the breeze. Some of it is festive and upbeat, some melancholy, but all of it is beautiful and expressive of these warm, welcoming people.

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