Pasai Donibane |
Sojourn to the Euskal Herria
We went on a trip to Spain a few years back, spending time in Asturias and Galicia. While there, we took a day to travel to Basque Country, to Bilbao (the pictures are here). At that time (October, 2013), we were both still working, I as a kayak guide and Cindy as a full-time statistician for the State of Maine, so we didn't have the time to fully explore the Basque area. But we regretted that we did not have an opportunity to explore a little more, and in particular San Sebastian intrigued us.
So, as we started putting together our thoughts about our new adventures, we put Basque Country -- Euskal Herria in Basque -- high on the list. And it didn't disappoint! We found a tiny village, Pasai Donibane, at the feet of Mount Jaizkibel, in the cove of Alabortza, to spend our ten days. Ibane means John in the Basque tongue; Pasai Donibane translates as the Passage of Saint John. The village is charming, the people active and friendly; we found our place just off the main square to be a wonderful base of operations! Following our habit of using our feet or public transportation, we found that reaching San Sebastian afoot was quick and easy, about a 30 minute walk on local roads. We also discovered that one of the arms of the Camino de Santiago, the Camino Del Norte, went right through Donibane, across the hills, and straight to San Sebastian!
San Sebastian itself is gorgeous, nestled in a cove right off the Bay of Biscay, with beautiful beaches frequented by locals and tourists and festooned with surfers. It's a clean city, beautifully balanced between modern architecture and older, more traditional areas. The Basque people are industrious and proud, fond of bright colors and good food. One can see, displayed prominently on walls and posts, the strong desire for an independent homeland. We found that Basque people we met were friendly and kind, and quick to make it clear to us that we were in Basque Country. While most individuals spoke Spanish, Basque is the dominant tongue, and we found that folks were appreciative when we spoke even a few words in their language.
So, as we started putting together our thoughts about our new adventures, we put Basque Country -- Euskal Herria in Basque -- high on the list. And it didn't disappoint! We found a tiny village, Pasai Donibane, at the feet of Mount Jaizkibel, in the cove of Alabortza, to spend our ten days. Ibane means John in the Basque tongue; Pasai Donibane translates as the Passage of Saint John. The village is charming, the people active and friendly; we found our place just off the main square to be a wonderful base of operations! Following our habit of using our feet or public transportation, we found that reaching San Sebastian afoot was quick and easy, about a 30 minute walk on local roads. We also discovered that one of the arms of the Camino de Santiago, the Camino Del Norte, went right through Donibane, across the hills, and straight to San Sebastian!
San Sebastian itself is gorgeous, nestled in a cove right off the Bay of Biscay, with beautiful beaches frequented by locals and tourists and festooned with surfers. It's a clean city, beautifully balanced between modern architecture and older, more traditional areas. The Basque people are industrious and proud, fond of bright colors and good food. One can see, displayed prominently on walls and posts, the strong desire for an independent homeland. We found that Basque people we met were friendly and kind, and quick to make it clear to us that we were in Basque Country. While most individuals spoke Spanish, Basque is the dominant tongue, and we found that folks were appreciative when we spoke even a few words in their language.
Village Parade Sunday morning from Our Apartment Window
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