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Ireland's Ancient East

For some reason, Ireland has always intrigued both of us. Whether it's the sense of mystery infused into the very stones of the place, the green beauty of the Emerald Isles, the long sense of history, or the friendliness and openness of the people (or maybe all of the above), it's a place we wanted to explore. It seemed a fitting place, then, to end our first round of travels as a nomadic couple. I couldn't tell you for sure why we chose the Wexford area, except that we were intrigued by the concept of exploring part of Ireland's Ancient East, and exploring places like Waterford, Duncannon, Rosslare, and Curracloe. We discovered an area where people are proud of their traditions, are warm and welcoming, and where the landscape is littered with linkages to the past.
Top Photos
Ancient East 
 --
​For a quick overview:
The Ancient East was and is a big part of the Irish breadbasket region. This ancient mill once provided flour for the surrounding area.
Tintern Abbey is famous for its bluebells. We were fortunate to be greeted by them on our visit there. Tintern was a Cistercian abbey built in the middle 12th century.
Copper mining was a major source of income for centuries in Ireland, similar to tin mining in Cornwall. The Tankardstown Mine was a major economic driver for the region in the early to mid 1800s, until the veins of ore dried up.
Hurling is prevalent all over the country. We saw boys and men carrying sliothars (hurling sticks) with them nearly everywhere we went. For an 800-year-old sport, it's amazingly vital!
While exploring the Copper Coast, we found our way to Dunhill Castle (or what remains of it). It was built in the early 1200's by the Powers clan, who had a long-standing feud with the city of Waterford.
Cobh's St. Colman's Cathedral is one of the loveliest of the churches we saw (out of many contenders) during our stay in Ireland.
Stories of St. Patrick date back to the late 300's in Ireland. Christianity has been a part of Irish life and thought for a millennium and a half.
As you can imagine, the Emerald Isle boasts many fine gardens within it borders. The Mount Congreve Estate ranks among the top. The estate was in the hands of the Congreve family from 1758 until 2011, when the last Congreve died at the age of 104 (!).
Gallery - For the whole story
We made our pied-a-terre in a lovely little apartment on a farm in Barntown, a suburb of Wexford in southeast Ireland.
The views were fantastic, and we enjoyed communing with cows and farm dogs on a daily basis.
There are many reminders in this area of the 1798 uprising of the Irish against the British . . .
While ultimately unsuccessful, the uprising expressed the sentiment of the Irish people and led to their eventual independence.
The Ancient East was and is a big part of the Irish breadbasket region. This ancient mill once provided flour for the surrounding area.
Tintern Abbey is famous for its bluebells. We were fortunate to be greeted by them on our visit there.
Tintern was a Cistercian abbey built in the middle 12th century.
The monks and the abbey flourished until the 16th century, when Henry VIII disbanded monasteries.
Now it is partially restored and quite impressive. The grounds are beautiful; one can spend the better part of a day just wandering.
When Tintern Abbey was dissolved, the grounds were granted to Sir Anthony Colclough.
The Colcloughs lived on the land for over 400 years. In that time they made many improvements to the land, including the creation of a Georgian Walled Garden.
It's hard to believe, but a lot of the landscaping we saw here was a new concept in the early 1800's, the Georgian Walled Garden.
The concept was to merge a park-like setting with the everyday needs of a vegetable garden.
The walled garden was an excellent place to have a contemplative stroll while out getting your supper veggies!
The grounds around the abbey abounded in mystical symbols . . .
. . . and whimsical settings. A truly lovely place, and a wonderful way to spend a day.
Waterford is Ireland's oldest city, dating to the early 900's. It's a seaport, and much of the surroundings have a nautical feel to them.
It was built by Vikings, and some of the original structures, such as Reginald's Tower, here, are still intact.
A walk through the city offers unexpected glimpses of some pretty impressive street art.
Waterford has experienced a lot of history in its millennium of existence. This memorial to John Condon, the youngest recorded Allied casualty in WWI, reflects the city's respect for its history.
Just spittin' distance from our place, we found the Irish National Heritage Center, a lovely park that is a showplace for 9,000 years of Irish history.
The park covers several acres, with different areas focusing on different historic periods. From ancient Stone Age menhirs . . .
. . . to medieval forts raised as protection from Vikings . . .
. . . to the seats of early Irish kings . . .
. . . to the introduction of Christianity, the park provided a wonderful, colorful lesson about the history of Ireland.
Hurling is prevalent all over the country. We saw boys and men carrying sliothars (hurling sticks) with them nearly everywhere we went. For an 800-year-old sport, it's amazingly vital!
The Ancient East is packed with fascinating areas to explore.
We found our way out to the Copper Coast and explored a bit. Copper mining was a major source of income for centuries in Ireland, similar to tin mining in Cornwall.
The Tankardstown Mine here was a major economic driver for the region in the early to mid 1800s, until the veins of ore dried up.
Now the Copper Coast is best known for some spectacular scenery!
While exploring the Copper Coast, we found our way to Dunhill Castle (or what remains of it). It was built in the early 1200's by the Powers clan, who had a long-standing feud with the city of Waterford.
Nowadays, the castle's a hard to reach ruin, but worth the climb, if for no other reason than to meet some of the lovely, friendly local residents.
As you can imagine, the Emerald Isle boasts many fine gardens within it borders. The Mount Congreve Estate ranks among the top.
The gardens are situated on an 18th-century estate near the town of Kilmeaden.
The Mount Congreve estate was in the hands of the Congreve family from 1758 until 2011, when the last Congreve died at the age of 104 (!).
It was bequeathed to the Irish State and is lovingly maintained.
The gardens and surrounding forest are beautiful and vibrant.
It's a lovely place to spend a day in nature!
We visited Cobh (cove) on our trip from the Ancient East to the Ring of Kerry. This small town of 12,000 has a lot of history. It was the primary debarkation point for Irish fleeing during the Potato Famine, and was also the last port of call of the Titanic on its ill-fated trip.
Cobh's St. Colman's Cathedral is one of the loveliest of the churches we saw (out of many contenders) during our stay in Ireland.
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