Sojourn to the Euskal Herria

We went on a trip to Spain a few years back, spending time in Asturias and Galicia. While there, we took a day to travel to Basque Country, to Bilbao (the pictures are here). At that time (October, 2013), we were both still working, I as a kayak guide and Cindy as a full-time statistician for the State of Maine, so we didn't have the time to fully explore the Basque area. But we regretted that we did not have an opportunity to explore a little more, and in particular San Sebastian intrigued us.

So, as we started putting together our thoughts about our new adventures, we put Basque Country -- Euskal Herria in Basque -- high on the list. And it didn't disappoint! We found a tiny village, Pasai Donibane, at the feet of Mount Jaizkibel, in the cove of Alabortza, to spend our ten days. Ibane means John in the Basque tongue; Pasai Donibane translates as the Passage of Saint John. The village is charming, the people active and friendly; we found our place just off the main square to be a wonderful base of operations! Following our habit of using our feet or public transportation, we found that reaching San Sebastian afoot was quick and easy, about a 30 minute walk on local roads. We also discovered that one of the arms of the Camino de Santiago, the Camino Del Norte, went right through Donibane, across the hills, and straight to San Sebastian!

San Sebastian itself is gorgeous, nestled in a cove right off the Bay of Biscay, with beautiful beaches frequented by locals and tourists and festooned with surfers. It's a clean city, beautifully balanced between modern architecture and older, more traditional areas. The Basque people are industrious and proud, fond of bright colors and good food. One can see, displayed prominently on walls and posts, the strong desire for an independent homeland. We found that Basque people we met were friendly and kind, and quick to make it clear to us that we were in Basque Country. While most individuals spoke Spanish, Basque is the dominant tongue, and we found that folks were appreciative when we spoke even a few words in their language. 

Village Parade Sunday morning from Our Apartment Window

Top Photos --
​For a quick overview:

There are two small towns here; the sister town of Pasai San Pedroko (Way of St. Peter) is on the opposite shore.

During wartime, when the men were gone, Basque women kept the fishing industry going, braving the waters of the Atlantic. Women are revered and respected in Basque culture.

The quickest and easiest way to get to San Sebastian (Donostia) is to cross the cove on a ferry. It's 80 centimos one way.

Signposts point the way to adventure.

The hills above Donibane are ripe for exploring.

The town is well-kept, quiet; it gives you the feeling of having stepped back into an earlier time. Basques are exceedingly proud of their heritage. They don't consider themselves Spanish.

San Sebastian combines old Basque architecture and culture with the most modern, and throws in a hippy, surfer atmosphere to boot. The beaches are lovely and clean. We were happy to have done our exploring in November, when tourist loading was at a minimum.

Gallery - For the whole story

Pasai Donibane (Way of St. John), nestled between the feet of Mount Jaizkibel and the waters of Alabortza.

There are two small towns here; the sister town of Pasai San Pedroko (Way of St. Peter) is on the opposite shore.

Two primary things define the people of this area: first -- always -- is being Basque; second is being fishermen and fisherwomen.

Basque fisherfolk have traveled this passage to work each and every day for centuries.

And still today, this is a surprisingly active port of trade . . .

. . . With gigantic vessels like this negotiating the tight channel continually.

This light station, perched at a juncture of the Camino Norte, maintains a sharp vigil for ships approaching the Alabortza.

Mount Jaizkibel is very stony, with much of the rock carved by wind and water into outrageous shapes.

It's a temptation to hikers. One branch of the Camino de Santiago -- the Camino del Norte -- meanders along its rocky shoulders.

Donibane's streets are narrow and stony, and lie in shadow most of the day.

The town is well-kept, quiet; it gives you the feeling of having stepped back into an earlier time.

Basques are exceedingly proud of their heritage. They don't consider themselves Spanish.

One is still reminded that the real world exists, and it's not without its troubles. The ETA is a Basque terrorist group -- though it's no longer in operation.

Though things have stabilized after the tensions of the past, there are strong reminders that past wrongs are not forgotten.

It's useful to learn a few phrases in Basque, because neither English nor Spanish are spoken or understood regularly in these small towns.

During wartime, when the men were gone, Basque women kept the fishing industry going, braving the waters of the Atlantic. Women are revered and respected in Basque culture.

The quickest and easiest way to get to San Sebastian (Donostia) is to cross the cove on a ferry. It's 80 centimos one way.

The ferry operates every day, shuttling between the two towns.

The San Pedro side. Note the male fisherman, a counterpart to the female on the Donibane side.

Pretty much all of our adventures have been via our own two feet. The walk from San Pedro to San Sebastian is about a half hour.

San Sebastian is beautiful and stately, with nevertheless a fun vibe.

It combines old Basque architecture and culture with the most modern, and throws in a hippy, surfer atmosphere to boot.

The beaches are lovely and clean. We were happy to have done our exploring in November, when tourist loading was at a minimum.

Much like Chicago or Boston, San Sebastian is split by a river. In this case, the Urumea.

Modern, well-maintained bridges connect the two parts of the city.

The western side of the Urumea includes the old town area, amongst other things.

Old Town San Sebastian retains a lot of the antique charm of earlier Basque culture.

Beautiful old style architecture . . .

. . . merged with newer art and style . . .

. . . so that one can find a beautiful Gothic church . . .

. . . adorned with modern sculpture.

Dining is a treat, with good food all around. Most of the restaurants feature tapas on the bar; help yourself and the bartender will keep tabs for you . . .

. . . the selections are plentiful and all delicious . . .

. . . but one of our favorites is still churros with chocolate!

San Sebastian features impressive architecture, wide boulevards with plenty of pedestrian-only galleries . . .

. . . and lovely public parks.

Donibane from the water, returning on the ferry. Yep, that's pretty much all there is.

A view from our apartment in Donibane. We were steps from the town square.

A walk out of town is a mini-adventure.

History seems to seep from every nook and cranny.

First, it's the ancestral home of the Basque people.

Second, it's part of the ancient route of pilgrims traveling to Santiago de Compostela.

While we were in town, we saw a few pilgrims make their journey down from the mountain, into the town, and across on the ferry.

While there are other branches of the Camino, this one, the Camino del Norte, is strikingly beautiful.

Small cascades festoon the sides of the trail.

The cove sparkles on bright days, and splashes mysteriously on dark or foggy days.

Pock-marked cliffs loom over the traveler.

And solitary beasts roam the hills.

Evidence of the Way of St. James is scattered throughout the area. This hostel reminds pilgrims it's still 825 kilometers from Donibane to Santiago de Compostela!

The seashell is the symbol of St. James, and marks the Camino throughout its length.

Crossing the cove to continue the Camino on the San Pedro side.

Here, the Way of St. James climbs many, many (many!) steps to the top of the ridge along the Biscay shores.

Biscay Bay and Alabortza Cove glisten below . . .

. . . while there are reminders that this is a dangerous area for fisherfolk and sailors.

The hike along the cliffs is lovely and -- at least at this time of year -- relatively solitary.

Reminders of the immense history of the area abound.

The Camino winds up and over hills and along steep cliffs.

Many an area beckons the traveler to stop, pull out lunch and maybe a bottle of wine . . .

. . . before continuing on.

The reward (for this brief leg of the Camino): Hondartza Beach in San Sebastian.

Time to sample an orange growing on a tree in San Sebastian (in November, just sayin') . . .

. . . before heading back to Donibane . . .

. . . and home to our little apartment.

Steps away from our apartment was the house Victor Hugo lived in during a year-long stay in Donibane.

He came to the town in 1843, after The Hunchback of Notre Dame (1831) and before Les Miserable (1862).

He came seeking quietude to write a book, but learned soon after his arrival that his daughter and son-in-law had drowned. Dumbfounded, it was years before he finished that book.

He wrote a poem about his daughter's death: "Alas! turning an envious eye towards the past, inconsolable by anything on earth, I keep looking at that moment of my life when I saw her open her wings and fly away!"

"I will see that instant until I die, that instant—too much for tears! when I cried out: "The child that I had just now— what! I don't have her any more!"

Donibane looked little different in Hugo's time than it does today.

We said a fond and heartfelt farewell to this lovely little town, before heading on to Portugal!