Not all Who Wander are Lost
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      • Motueka Valley
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      • Scotland

Surrey, UK

We decided on England after Iceland for a number of reasons. We'd planned on a trip to southern England back in 2002, with plans on hiking and exploring among Shakespearean haunts. But back then, an outbreak of hoof and mouth disease closed paths in the south of the country, so we went to Scotland instead (loved it, by the way, no regrets). So we were curious to see the south of England. Also, as it turned out our daughter Rhiannon would be flying into London (after her own adventures in Croatia), so we wanted to be somewhat close to the City (but not too close) so we could see her. We were drawn to Surrey because of its proximity to London, and its designation as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty -- which has proved to be very true.

Surrey is rife with paths, crisscrossing through pastoral settings, lovely villages, along babbling brooks, and past and through meadows and pastures filled with cows and sheep. Our apartment there was in a valley -- Mole Valley it's called -- surrounded by downs. Downs, we learned, are special kinds of hills whose primary composition is chalk. So our footpaths will take us up past large open deposits of chalk, to offer us stunning views into the valley below, and then drop down into forests of truly ancient, awe-inspiring trees rising up over lovely houses. Pheasants and grouse chase through the undergrowth and rise thunderously into the air as we approach, while magpies and crows carouse in the fields, looking for seeds.

It's a serene, enchanting place. One of the things we love most is that we can explore to our hearts' content, and most of our explorations have been on our own two legs. We can walk out our door, down the lawn, and walk through a gate onto a path that will take us to wonderful new places. We've found several excellent pubs and restaurants within walking distance, wonderful villages a stone's throw away, beautiful ancient woods just asking to be explored, all right off the beaten path. We've been on the train three times, now, twice to London and once to Brighton. Otherwise, all of our sojourns have been, as they say here, shank's mare. It's a wonderful area!
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Our current home is Chartfield, a stately home on the outskirts of the hamlet of Westcott.
It's cozy and comfortable, and the owner, an amicable British woman, has provided all the necessities.
All of our adventures start right here in the back yard of Chartfield.
A public footpath on the outskirts of Westcott. It can take you to the next town over, or up into the downs if you prefer.
Signposts help keep you on the correct path.
The woods here are stupendous.
Rambles take you through leafy tunnels.
The outskirts of Polesden Lacey, at the top of Denbie Downs.
Sometimes deciding which direction to go is challenging.
The churches here are spectacular.
As are the dwellings. Even the most modest cottages are individually named.
Paths weave through the countryside, often leading into intriguing green tunnels.
Trees here -- even dead ones -- have a mystical flavor.
That's not Farmer Wooten, that's a scarecrow.
Lovely manors are sprinkled liberally across the landscape, popping up unexpectedly on rustic sojourns.
Surrey is one of England's prime farming areas, and public footpaths meander through pasturage.
We came upon these oreo cows (Galloways) on our travels.
Every house, large or small, has its individual name.
Rookery Cottage, here, is a short walk from our front door.
It's a quaint, rustic example of homespun British architecture.
If you look carefully, you'll see mole hills scattered around the field here. We surmise this explains the name of the valley.
We have had a beautiful fall here, with myriad colorful blossoms.
The countryside is dotted with ancient graveyards.
And ancient churches.
Roads here are narrow, but fortunately not too heavily traveled.
The Witches Broom Tree, a beech nearly 300 years old.
The woods are filled with gnarled giants like this, though this is the largest (and oldest) we came across.
We loved this little pub, in the town of Gomshall. Each pub has its special take on standards like fish and chips (with mushy mint peas!).
Paths and roads are flanked by hedges all through Surrey. Hedge plants include hawthorn, privet, and holly, to name a few.
Chestnut trees here are hale and immense . . .
. . . and well-supplied with chestnuts (Cindy calls them "tree urchins").
A pleasant little place on the edge of Westcott, where we stayed.
Found lots of friendly wildlife (well, semi-wild).
The Wotton Hatch pub, one of our favorite places. Their Pornstar martinis are to die for.
We did make it into the big city on a few occasions. Outside Buckingham Palace. No royals, though . . .
At least, not live ones . . .
St. James's Park . . .
. . . had some nice chairs on the lawn.
The Horse Guards Parade Ground and Admiralty Arch.
Strolling along the Thames with the Eye in the background . . .
. . . you should have seen the line for that thing.
Couple of shady characters hanging out at Scotland Yard.
Starring Sir Ian McKellan! What a performance!
Pre-theater drinks and animated conversation.
Heading out for one of our day trips, this time to the hamlet of Shere.
Some young fellows being fattened up . . .
The lovely town of Shere . . .
Shere has been featured in some films . . .
. . . "The Holiday", with Jude Law and Kate Winslet . . .
. . . and at least one "Bridget Jones's Diary" . . .
. . . it's not hard to see why . . .
. . . it's truly lovely.
Shere's a pleasant place to settle back for a quick pint and a stroll around town.
The pathway might just lead to fairyland . . .
On the way to our favorite pub, Wotton Hatch. This spindle bush caught our attention.
So we thought we'd relax by it for a few minutes . . .
. . . and contemplate the countryside.
We found our way out to Brighton for a gorgeous sunny day in late fall.
Gazing across the English Channel . . .
. . . and strolling along the beach.
Brighton Pier had a variety of shops and arcade rides.
Quite a few Britons decided to take this sunny Friday off and enjoy the park.
Brighton Palace was a bit of an oddity, in between the city of Brighton and the beach.
A "dene" is a narrow wooded valley. This is the Deepdene, an area outside of Dorking Cindy and I explored.
We followed this spooky trail during our exploration of Deepdene.
Deepdene is loaded with lovely chestnut trees . . .
. . . and beeches.
Deepdene has a long history, including being owned by the Hope family -- famous for the diamond. This is a mausoleum for a Thomas Hope's 7-year-old son Charles.
Deepdene Trail, on the way to Betchworth Castle.
Betchworth Castle, which abuts, of all things, a golf course.
Betchworth started as an earthwork fort in the 11th century . . .
. . . and was rebuilt as a stone castle in the later 14th century.
On the outskirts of Brockham . . .
. . . is a lovely manor.
We were enchanted with Brockham, a picturesque and peaceful British village.
The town is very well maintained.
We watched the town building an enormous bonfire in preparation for Guy Fawkes Day.
Strolling over the River Mole.
We only made a few trips to London -- we loved Surrey too much -- but we did go to see Wicked.
What a fun musical! We highly recommend it.
On the way to Wotton Hatch, our favorite pub, is this, our favorite tree (except for the Witches' Broom tree, of course).
Three lovely pelicans hanging out in St. James's Park.
He's everywhere here . . .
Meandering through China Town.
Our back yard, with Pipp Brook peeking through the trees . . .
. . . and just down the road, a couple of pleasant neighbors.
The food at Wotton Hatch is to die for.
Trees play such an important part of the landscape here. So many are just huge and lush.
Ancient oaks, chestnuts, enormous beeches, yews, maples, red pines.
Even the dead ones have a majesty and presence.
Encountering these magnificent entities just blew our minds.
Many woven over with vines, seeming to spell out an ancient language in runes.
Occasionally, the odd piece of art would appear along the footpaths.
We spent a day and traveled to Leith Hill.
Traveling back roads and wooded areas with, as usual, striking examples of trees.
Often, rather than public footpaths, one finds oneself on narrow country lanes.
They each have their own personalities.
Immense, ancient trees creep up right to the edge of these lanes.
We're glad to see the works of man take a back seat to the works of nature.
Nature defines much of the atmosphere of this country.
With occasional whimsy.
Near the top of Leith Hill.
Leith Hill is the highest hill on Greensand Ridge, part of the border of the Mole Valley.
It's the second-highest point in southeast England.
But when you add Leith Tower, it's the highest point in southeast England.
Leith Tower was built in 1765 by Richard Hull as "a place for people to enjoy the glory of the English countryside."
And enjoy it we do!
It's 74 steps to the top of the tower, and worth every step.
Endlessly fascinated by the unusual configurations of trees.
Many would be joined at the trunks, with two, three, even four trunks linked like conjoined twins.
Chartfield, the place where we stayed.
De Nada's, a tapas joint in Guildford.
They had amazing desserts.
Yum!
Guildford's a town of 80,000 on the river Wey.
It's quite lovely.
The Wey runs through it.
There's a peaceful walkway that follows the river through the city and beyond.
Guildford Castle dominates the skyline.
The castle was built around the time of William the Conqueror.
Now, gardens ring the castle.
The view over the city is awesome.
The English love their green spaces. They litter them liberally through their towns and cities.
Our woolly friends keep the grass manageable.
Fall's starting to take hold.
Margot Fonteyn was born and raised in Reigate, another lovely Surrey town.
Our favorite non-witches' broom tree, surrendering to autumn.
This church overlooks the town of Westcott, where we stayed.
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